Shoulder length sling climbing reddit. Sounds complicated, and like you carry too many alpines.

Shoulder length sling climbing reddit Time isn't the enemy; same as the deal with climbing ropes: per Pit Shubert's paper, it's USE, not AGE. I'm 3 years post injury (grade 3 AC), no surgery, just PT. 3-1", a set of BD stoppers, 6 quickdraws, and 4 shoulder length slings or 4 alpine quickdraws. EDIT: Here's the link. Cams, TriCams & stoppers on carabiners clipped to a shoulder gear sling hanging from a hook in a rafter. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. Three choices. You'll probably also want to invest in some sort of personal anchor for tethering yourself at the top of a sport route. Assuming they have a full sport rack I'd go with 6x mammut contact slings, bd c4s . Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. When you need a certain sling, you can simply unclip the carabiner from one of the two ends and pull it. Double length is 120cm, these are usually what you use for personal anchoring. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. Try doubling one sling, extending it with a quickdraw, or girth-hitching a second sling to the 377 votes, 65 comments. Some opinions about this would be great. Posted by u/Enonnaig - 5 votes and 50 comments We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. On here sits all the extra stuff. , if the bolt line is not straight, longer draws can ameliorate some of the drag instead of the rope zig zagging between the bolts, the longer draws will assist; or if the route goes over big roofs the rope will hopefully run a bit smoother. I put a shoulder length sling on the top carabiner of the draw I am at, pull on the draw as I stand up in the sling, and use a stiffy QuickDraw to get the next clip. If you don't need both your hands free then a hand strap (I use the Peak Design Clutch) can take the load off. 5 years now and I’m slowly working on trimming up my typical rack and making it more efficient. Shoes piled up in a wire basket. Nov 10, 2010 · As you take in slack after your lead, make big (10 feet or more) loops over your shoulders until the rope goes snug, then drop the loops into a shoulder-length sling and clip them out of the way. I also really like to keep 1 or 2 lengths of cord, still 6 mm, About the same loop length of a shoulder length sling because I could use that as an Emergency runner if I need to. Method two is using two quickdraws and double backing them (clipping them in opposite directions) to yourself and the anchor. Have done a good amount of diverse… Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. Girth hitched through waist and leg loop points so my belay loop stays open. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. Belay device, cordelette, nut tool stay on my harness. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. 3 double length slings as well Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. thus, you dont have to feel like you wasting a biner every time you clip a draw to the cam's sling. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. The BD momentum SA harness is probably the best value. Two anchor pieces, each about the size of a draw on your harness, and pretty darn light. Clip the other two biners around the lower section (should be 4 strands) then rope goes into those biners. I'm pain free, full range of motion. -one sewn sling, double shoulder length (120 cm), to make a sliding x/equallete. Standard or shoulder length is 60cm, these are usually tripled and used for runners/long quickdraws. alpine draw. I had consultations with two different surgeons, both recommended that I do PT instead of surgery for the following reasons 1) young, and good chance of rehab 2) surgery introduces risks of complications 3) if I crashed on that shoulder again and broke the repair, I'd be worse off than if I didn't two triple length slings with a locker on them. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Personal preference, I guess. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. Clip shoulder length sling with 1 carabiner to bolt side carabiner of quick draw, clip quick draw as normal to bolt. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. , 25cm x2 + 18cm x6 + 12cm x6) + at least one shoulder length sling + random binners to have as much diverse rack as possible. Now you have lower and higher clipping point. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. Sounds complicated, and like you carry too many alpines. Item Description Number Cost Link Rope Edelweiss Rocklight II Climbing Rope - 9. So, friction knot > carabiner > friction knot. I like to use a shoulder length with a figure 8 in the middle. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. Posted by u/stochastica - 7 votes and 48 comments Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Depends on your local climbing area. What do I need for my trip in 2 weeks time? This is all excellent advice. Hi, I have been climbing for over two years now. Then I would set aside 4-6 shoulder length slings, each with a single non-locker clipped on, and have those slings over my shoulder. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Gym climber looking to get outside next spring, mostly in the northeast USA. For a couple extra bucks I think the ATC XP is a much better device. The only thing that's off is him using a shoulder length sling instead of an aider, puts his foot really high. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. Standard slings are 48-inch sewn loops, but individual runners can vary a few inches, to better fit larger- or smaller-chested climbers. It was recommended as a fairly non-invasive surgery and the work was all done orthoscopically. This would allow the belayer to get lifted up higher before the Ohm engages, eating up some of the energy. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. Then I'll have 6 shoulder length slings with a single carabiner slung on my shoulder to use for clipping cams since they already have carabiners on them. I have both, I will use my dynex slings to extend my master point. Exactly. Because both of your ascenders are toothed ascenders take special care to make sure your setup is auto feeding, you really don't want to whip onto an ascender, both because ascenders cut ropes at like 4kn of force, and also because you will fuck up the sheath of your I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. This should cover roping up and crevasse rescue on glaciated terrain, I expect my partner(s) to carry a similar set up. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Log In / Sign Up Also take all your 60cm slings also known as "double length slings" and make alpine draws with them and bring those in lieu of regular draws. g. I was fully picturing a 120cm in my head. I usually carry 3 biner and 3 locking biner, 2 short prussic (shoulder length) and a long one (double shoulder length), a couple of ice screws and at least one snow stake. the knot might snag. how you rack them tends to be personal preference, but I usually keep a couple on my harness as alpine draws and keep the rest slung over a shoulder (most w/ 2 carabiners, some w/ 1) Anchors: You can use cordallete or slings (120cm or 240cm, nylon or dyneema). Jun 3, 2022 · To extend your device, use a double-shoulder-length sling or your personal anchor system (PAS). Slings, doesn't really matter. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. That way, if you need to fully extend a cam, you can just pull the sling off your shoulder, and clip it to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner that was already on the sling. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. Sling Length. Sep 30, 2016 · Personally I prefer longer QDs (18cm and 25cm) to shorter (10cm or 12cm) ones and try to carry all three sizes (e. Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine "The other most important thing is that the sling should be minimalistic, comfortable and full strength so that you’ll always have one last shoulder length sling to whip out if you run out of runners to extend a crucial piece, or if you arrive at the anchor with nothing and you need something to clip in with. The climbing rope between the two friction knots is slightly slack and the inexpensive sling takes the load over the abrasive edge. Posted by u/CyberScorpion0 - 4 votes and 18 comments 10 votes, 24 comments. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. The P. I've actually taken to bringing a reverso (not sure which generation exactly, but it's bent aluminum in a ridiculously simple shape) to reduce the clusterfuck of super skinny ropes, not the modern one. I've had problems with the Attaches coming unscrewed, I'd recommend BD positron lockers. That's 12 pieces of gear for a pitch, without including the anchor or any that you could clip directly. You could attach the sling to the belt with a carabiner, or probably girth hitch the sling to the belt, as a fall would be unlikely to generate enough heat to melt the slings (but still possible, id qgo with the biner) then the other carabiner is used to clip to the cables. I use the auto-block with only a couple loops, because the number in the video makes it really slow to rap, but definitely start slow. I don't mess with alpine draws at all because almost all of my placements are cams and if I extend those placements, I always use a full 60cm sling to do so. I returned to the climbing gym on September 7th where I did some mellow traversing and climbed some V0s On the 16h I climbed some V3s On the 23rd I did a handstand and a cartwheel I'm still being careful with my repaired shoulder and taking care not to do anything aggressive with it. 5 can vary from 0. For surgeries 2 and 3 I got the Latar-jet I've started attaching a shoulder-length sling to mine instead of the included quickdraw. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. But I have countered with my own test results on skinny slings which see very little use, and they were still going strong after 5+ years. A shoulder strap will take the weight off of your neck and spread it across your shoulder and back. Whether or not you want to do climbing-specific training during down time depends on your psyche, what worked for me was mixing it up with other activities I enjoy until I felt good enough to climb harder again. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. Right now I have been sport climbing and now how to lead and clean routes, and soon will get into 2-3 pitch of sport only climbing. This actually isn't a terrible technique, it's what Chris Mac recommends in his new book. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. Your setups lacks these 60cm slings right now. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). They’re sized to fit neatly over one shoulder and give approximately 24 inches of extension when clipped with a biner on each end. 11c in the Red at this point (getting back on 12a now). If there is not good beta for the route than bring 1 draw for every 5m on the longest pitch plus a few extras. Some people I know like to extend the belay loop on their harness with a shoulder length sling, clip their atc to the top of that for rapping, and put the auto-block on their belay loop so that it is load bearing. Double the sling over, grab both loops, twist, then clip them back to the locker in a good, twisty mess. Girth-hitch the sling through the two tie-in points on your harness and snug it up, keeping the bar tack close to your belay loop (fig. Also, he needs to learn how to use the trigger. As one of the lightest slings available, this is a great choice The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. Posted by u/MtnMan88 - 4 votes and 24 comments If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. that way, if you want to extend a piece, you just clip that sling to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner on the sling. Southern Spain, some multi pitches, all sport climbing. Ss they make these days are pretty sweet though, the big selling point is adjustable length for clipping in which can greatly reduce clusterfuckery. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. If you want a more secure grasp around the coil you can clip the second biner around the sling which will cinch down on the coiled rope. A forth s-biner can go through the jacket's hang loop and attach directly to another element of your bag. This allows the fall to lift the belayer a bit, softening the catch, but still puts a limit on how far up the belayer can get pulled. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. Clip a normal alpine draw to the cam sling. . I'm planning to buy some pro (a mix of cams and… Feb 23, 2022 · 10 shoulder-length slings; 1 double-sided gear sling; 3 double-length slings; 1 60m x 10. Thinking about replacing the normal cordelette/quad length sling with a 15' length of tech cord for multipitch trad. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. And for reference, he's climbed El Cap a few more times than you. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. For single length slings (2'), you can either put them over one shoulder (with or w/o 1 carabiner each), or double them up on 2 carabiners each: i. I usually carry 10 shoulder length slings + wiregates, 2 doubles, and a quad for the anchor. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. It will be harder to equalize the anchor if the bolts are at different heights. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. Ignore the cam racking carabiner, just let it hang there unused. Last week I was practicing self arrests with an ice axe and I fully dislocated my left shoulder. Sport draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. The straighter your rope, the less likely your cams are to walk, and the less drag you experience pulling the rope up behind you. although some of these roof scenarios might require an alpine draw / shoulder length sling . In the meantime, I also had surgery in 2014 for my right shoulder. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. If the climb is very straight I’ll rack on regular quickdraws. Useful for clipping into anchors, switching to rappel quickly without ever being being unprotected, and great for multiple raps for the above two reasons. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. Oct 23, 2012 · Related: How to Identify Bad Climbing Bolts. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. Posted by u/trollhawk - 2 votes and 23 comments Besides keeping the stands an equal length, this method makes it easier to rack multiple slings over your shoulder. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Anyway, shoulder feels bomber now and better than the 'healthy' one! Good luck with the surgery and LMK if you've any other questions. Posted by u/WildWilly29 - 5 votes and 29 comments Mtnoutlet. The home of Climbing on reddit. For long, traversing routes I will take the whole kit and kaboodle. Posted by u/AutoModerator - 5 votes and 286 comments. No sling on thumb loop action here. If a route is bolted closely enough, I can aid to the next clip. Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 60cm double-length version of this sling and weighed it at 20g, tied with the Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling as the second lightest of all that we have tested. If you have like 2-4 small draws, 4-6 longer ones and 4 alpines that should cover you for most stuff. I dislocated that same shoulder a couple of years later and had surgery again in 2016. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Make sure to ask yourself would a normal alpine draw be safe enough, because if it is just do that. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those Dynema is amazing. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. For short rappels the double shoulder length sling diaper harness is the absolute shit. If you’ve got a big objectives with a bunch of multi pitch rappels, take the extra 30 seconds to turn two shoulder length slings into cow tails with lockers. If you need your hands free then you can try a shoulder strap (I use the Peak Design leash but there are other more padded ones). I've got 100% active and passive ROM back. Fold it over on itself and clip the other end of the sling into your belay loop with a locker. 6 million pounds. 75-3 range, a set of dmm offset alloys, ange L on all the cams and a dmm leashed nut tool. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. Another way to do it is by using a shoulder length sling with 2 carabiners, clipping one to the harness, wrapping the sling around the butterfly coil and clipping back to carabiner on the harness. But the upside down V of utility cord keeps the jacket from flopping. Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. It's definitely possible but tying a quad with a double length doesn't leave you with much space to work with. Sure you could top rope off of it no problem but for multi pitch sport I would always use a longer cord to tie a quad. If you already have some QDs from sport climbing, you can bring those, but I rarely do. For short access stuff (cragging), though, it actually works great if you just roll it through a single-length tied-webbing sling, so that one side of the sling passes through the center of the roll. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. Reply Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Two shoulder-length (24”) slings can be used instead of a single 48” sling, by clipping one to each bolt. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. e. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. " You can use a bungee or a double length sling or two shoulder length slings. But strength is returning, I can do a set of 10 pullups. Longer slings are more effective at reducing rope drag than a quickdraw, but are also heavier and bulkier. 173 votes, 41 comments. Haven't tried it yet, though. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. I extend my cam placements with 60cm slings racked over-the-shoulder with a single carabiner clipped in. There are other cams that people may like better for whatever reason, but BD is a solid first investment. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. daisy chains (2 per person) aiders (6 per team of two) ascenders (2 per person) fifi hook; helmet; comfy, well-padded harness with detachable leg loops 1. 10-15x 60cm ('shoulder-length') slings. 5mm lead rope; 1 60m x 9mm static haul rope; 1 progress-capture pulley; 1 swivel for haul bag; Personal Gear. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. I'm 7 months post op as of tomorrow and I'm able to climb 5. 3 to 0. This gets you a "minimal single rack". My slings all have one carabiner and I use cams racking biner for the other side. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. It keeps things snug enough that I don't have to worry about having too much slack in the rope, or having to adjust the feed during the climb. 240cm is plenty of Nice haul! Now you just need a couple more trad draws, a few more nuts or offsets (unless you climb south western US) 2-3 single length slings (for extending cams without wasting a draw, or anchor building) 1 double length sling for bolt anchors/misc. And yes we are scared of falling. And honestly, two equallettes isn't bad. 3-4 with doubles in the . while youre on thr subject, i highly recommend getting a few shoulder length slings and putting a single non locker on each one. Posted by u/shredwhiteandblue - 2 votes and 21 comments Mar 13, 2024 · Single-length slings should be the mainstay of your sling collection. Cowtail the sling (120cm', or whatever length you prefer)to yourself via belay loop and attach the carabiner to the anchor point. This is the system I use to rappel: More experienced climber attaches a Prussik (or third hand) to the rope and pulls up enough slack for all climbers to load their rappel devices above Hey everyone. (Then at a cafe, you Oh, totally. , a couple spare non-locking biners for anchors or using all your cams - and learn to use clove hitches and rely less on the PAS. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. 5 trad draws (shoulder length slings + 2 snapgates for each) 2-3 double length slings Quadruple length sling or cordelette + 3-4 locking biners for anchors Hexes, small cams, big cams, offset nuts, extra tricams and all of that can come later when he has a better idea of what he wants. Then that sling becomes a shoulder strap and it can just be carried like that. 1. A. Posted by u/AutoModerator - 7 votes and 168 comments Posted by u/sheatetheseeds - 27 votes and 73 comments My friend suggested attaching the Ohm using a shoulder-length sling instead of the provided quickdraw. if the longest pitch is 40m bring 10. Climbing pack Posted by u/KPmac2306 - 6 votes and 12 comments Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. E. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema The basic beginner trad rack is Black Diamond C4s . After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add Then grab a "runner" aka "shoulder length sling," and two carabiners. However, there would still be a limit on how high the belayer would get pulled up. I went to the ER where they took an X-ray (no broken bones) and popped it in a good 6 hours after it was originally dislocated, put me in a sling and sent me home. 1). Take some additional 60cm slings according to route length Another method that works in a pinch is to use two slings or a Prusik and a long sling with a friction knot. For my smaller cams (Black Diamond X4s) I always extend with at least a quickdraw, and frequently with a full shoulder-length sling. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. 2, you put a quick link in both the top, AND the second-to-top bolt, and lower without the prusik, the second quick-linked bolt ads a layer of 11 votes, 23 comments. 10 votes, 14 comments. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. 11 votes, 390 comments. I carry 4 alpines (Ya it's different) and slings over my shoulder for cams. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint 1. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. Currently this is what I typically rack 8 quickdraws (25mm long dyneema dogbones) 4 Shoulder length dyneem alpine draws 1 Double length dyneem sling 1. On my glacier rack I use the electricians coil on my single length slings too, since they will only be used in an emergency. (Like 1/2lb). If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. I strap my microtrax to two shoulder-length slings slung bandolier style on opposite shoulder, and attach to a short line to my belay loop. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. Alpine draws clipped to a 30cm sling and hanging from a hook in a rafter. I think the reality is though, you don’t need stuff to hand in the same way you would for stuff like hiking/rambling etc. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. I'd recommend getting at least a couple pear shaped locking biners for your personal anchor and for your ATC. Use a second biner to fasten the sling closed, so you can quickly drop the rope out of the sling if it starts to snarl. I had my first surgery in 2010 on my left shoulder. 812 votes, 44 comments. eg. Anchor Options. In this thread you can ask any climbing… And you don't need so many short draws if you're not sport climbing. I carry 4-6 25cm quickdraws for clipping nuts/tricams/bolts. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. May 18, 2021 · 1 shoulder-length sling Wiregates tend to be a little more versatile than solid-gate ‘biners because of their lighter weight. 8mm (70m) Posted by u/disforderp - 3 votes and 25 comments Upvote for extendable slings on the draws - I forgot to put that in my comment. You clip the bottoms into the base of the shoulder straps, and a sliding "top of the point" goes over the back of the bag and up to the grab handle. Metolious PAS, purcell prusik, or two shoulder length slings are three options. I get where you’re coming from OP as it does seem like they’d be of use to carry stuff that you need to hand. A long Kong Panic works for me. This method works even if you rack double-length slings under single-length slings. On a climbing harness already heavy with gear, carrying light draws makes a difference. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. The rappel extension helps eliminate this issue When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. Another strategy is learning some basic aid climbing. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. Put all the cams and whatever nuts/hexes you use regularly on a shoulder length sling Put all your draws on another sling But all other pro on another sling Sling one and two go in a pack with your harness, rope, shoes, chalk bag, helmet, belay device all ready to rage. nope, they're saying you have two options: 1, you can place one quick link in your top-most bolt, and lower off that with a prusik tied to the rope, which effectively eliminates all excess slack above you, so if the bolt does fail, you won't deck. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. Carry a few single length slings over a shoulder with one carabiner attached. It is only one gram heavier than the two lightest slings, the Mammut Contact Sling and the Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling. I prefer the mental comfort of not using a largely dyneema sling (DONT JUDGE ME BEARBREEDER), so I use this sling, rather than this dynex/dyneema (basically the same thing) sling. I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. Expand user menu Open settings menu. Black Diamond is the gold standard for cams. Edit: ignore me, my bad. Consider extending your draws (going full-length if they're alpine, or adding a short sling if they're sport) depending on where you're going and how you expect the rope to drag. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Therefore when racking my X4s on my harness, I often just rack them on alpine draws. stuff like a compass, map, multitool etc which would be of use for hiking largely isn’t used in the same way as it is in my (limited) experience mountaineering. I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the rack and making it easier/more efficient to clip and continue climbing. Alpine draws are more useful because you can extend them. As for the daisy chain I'd suggest just getting two shoulder length slings and girth hitching them on your two tie in points. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. This is my preferred method. com Sep 28, 2018 · I suspect you're relying on JHealy's test results on his (well used) skinny slings. However - and I apologize if you already knew this - make sure you have alpine draws! Sport draws are too rigid and will wiggle pieces right out of the wall as you move up. Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Jul 5, 2020 · I’ve been climbing trad for 2. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Slings come in a variety of lengths, widths and weights. Been sport climbing for over a year. Doubling up carabiners in a bolt hanger with a lead fall YGD. I usually carry 8 shoulder-length alpine draws tripled up on my harness, 2 shoulder length slings with a single biner each, and two double-shoulder length slings (also with a single biner each), plus ~6-8 regular length draws. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. Will deploy… Ah, OK. Which I do see myself headed into. I find myself using the cordelette less and less often and just making anchors out of a double length sling and maybe an additional alpine draw. Alpines are only for nuts and although It happens I hate extending them because putting them back, I think is a pain. tcak zmpovj vofvzu hyxs mujai ljclwck fpez okgch xjmc cajt sxhev wdegk hbrw eqegn xmirbu \